Trip to Burgundy 2009, Day 1

I’m writing this perched on the edge of my bed in Le Hotel les Deux Coteaux in Tain L’Hermitage. I’m causing the bed more stress than it would normally be under as I’ve just returned from eating at a fantastic little restaurant called ‘La Chaumiere’ with my colleagues Alastair, Felix and Martin. We’ve arrived in the Rhône for a quick visit to an Hermitage producer before driving on to Burgundy to taste the new vintage, as well as diverting south to Beaujolais to meet our old friends the Perrin family at Ternard.

We all flew in to Lyon earlier and drove down to Tain (through a very scenic route having got a little waylaid on the way through Vienne) where we located our Hotel. The hotel is a stone’s throw from the River Rhone, which was looking resplendent in the Autumn sunshine. I was thrilled to see how beautifully clear the water was – I was expecting it to be murky like the Thames, but we could see water plants and rocks through icy, crystal waters.

There’s a footbridge connecting Tain (on the right bank if you’re looking north, to Tournon on the left), and we walked across the river to get a quick beer before eating at La Chaumiere. The restaurant is a fantastic place to seek out for authentic regional food. Somehow, we all managed to eat four courses – a rich, liver-based pâté served in a thick tomato sauce; wild boar with chesnuts and raspberry with carrots, endive and creamy potatoes; fromage blanc (fresh cheese) with chestnut purée; pear tart with chocolate sauce, and caramel and fleur du sel ice cream. Phew.

Alastair chose three wines from the wine list – all quite basic, but functional and characterful:

2005 St Peray, Jardin des Faures, Barona Pere et Fils
High acidity, but fresh with a tiny hint of oxidation (traditional winemaking) – we think it’s made from Marsanne with a dash of Roussanne.

Ardeche les Muletiers, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l’Ardeche Rosé
Gluggable, but also quite high in acidity, so ideal with food, simple.

2007 Les Launes Crozes-Hermitage, Delas
Rustic nose, quite wild, also simple, but good with food.

La Chaumiere is a Logis de France (characterful, family-run hotels / restaurants) and just behind where I was sitting was a little alcove full of keys labelled up with room names – each was a sign of the zodiac. It’s an ancient building, with dark, exposed beams, rich in history, steeped in tradition. Just behind my left shoulder was an ancient-looking font, where a sheep’s head was turned into an elaborate faucet – except that there was a shiny brass tap on the sheep’s head. The service was superb – friendly, courteous and authentic – as was the food. A great discovery.

A well-earned beer at Tournon

View of the River Rhone from the Hotel window

Hugely famous Rhone vineyards taken from moving car - can just see the signs for Chapoutier and Paul Jaboulet Aine as well as l'Hermitage