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Burgundy – final day

We emerged from our warm beds at the Hotel du Centre in Meursault for a couple of hour’s drive through the fog south to Beaujolais to visit our good friends, and fantastic wine producers, Bernard and Blandine Perrin at Domaine de Milhomme, Ternard. We couldn’t find the D38 as we left the motorway at Villefranche, but instead took the most beautiful route cross-country via Cogny, La Maladière and St Paule to Ternard. We were high above the fog (clouds) in bright sunshine, and had a stunning view across the valley.

Beautiful-Beaujolais. Above-the-clouds.

Beautiful-Beaujolais. Above-the-clouds.

Domaine de Milhomme

It was fantastic to see Blandine and Bernard again – they are such a lovely couple. We were laughing within seconds of our arrival. The Perrins not only have their own domaine (Milhomme) but also act as ‘agents’ for other family wineries in the area (they’ve recently expanded their portfolio to the Rhône as well). Bernard knows Beaujolias inside out, and his group of growers are all of exceptional quality. We tasted through a range of tank samples of the 2009 vintage, followed by the 08s, and some o7s where the wine is still available.

Blandine and Bernard Perrin, Domaine de Milhomme

Blandine and Bernard Perrin, Domaine de Milhomme

2009 Beaujolais – a superb vintage

The 2009 vintage is very, very good in Beaujolais. Bernard explained that it was a lovely, sunny summer, but when the vines began to show some heat stress, just enough rain fell to revive them. The only thing they had to look out for were some extra ripe cuvées reaching 14 degrees, but they will sell these off to local clients rather than add them to the blends. The old folk in the village are saying that you have to go back as far as 1947 for as good a vintage. 2009 is said to be better than the famous 1976 vintage. So, 2009 is the year for Beaujolais. The 09 wines we tried from the village appellations were all substantial, with vibrant fruit flavours and ample balancing acidity. If you think you don’t like Beaujolais, wait until the 2009s are ready and get tucked in, you’ll be amazed.

Beaujolais

Beaujolais

2008 Beaujolais – a challenging vintage, but successful for good growers

The 2008 vintage, in common with Burgundy, was much more complicated – this vintage will really mark out the difference between good, concientious growers, and those less so. In the Perrin’s case, the vintage was saved by their patience. They had had a cold, cloudy summer, with the north wind present all the way up to the 25th August, when the weather became hot and sunny. Some growers picked too early when the grapes were not fully ripe, but the Perrins and the domaines they work with waited until 25th September before harvest began – this gave them the extra 1.5 degrees of ripeness they were looking for.

After a fascinating tasting, Blandine and Bernard treated us to a gorgeous, home-cooked lunch. We began with salade a la maison Perrin (leafy lettuce, tomatoes, bread and the most gorgeous salad dressing) followed by the most enormous chicken legs with creamy mashed potatoes (the secret to the creaminess according to Blandine is to use hot milk) and home-grown figs, oven-baked. I wish I could tell you how good the chicken tasted. This was followed by a selection of cheeses with walnuts from the neighbouring forest and a home-made apple and fig tarte tatin.

The Perrins are kind and generous hosts, and we look forward to seeing their new wines arrive next year.

Blandine and Alastair, Domaine de Milhomme

Blandine and Alastair, Domaine de Milhomme

Gamay vines at Domaine de Milhomme

Gamay vines at Domaine de Milhomme

Green heart on the hillside above Domaine de Milhomme

Green heart on the hillside above Domaine de Milhomme

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